Varanasi : A welcome to remember

We are off to Varanasi to meet Nani Ma (Puspha's mother) and the rest of her clan.  Varanasi, also known as Banares, is one of the world's oldest continually inhabited cities, and one of the holiest sites in India.

After spending a week here, I can say with full confidence, that no one can ever really be ready for the rush of experiences provided by Varanasi.  It was definitely one of my favorite destinations.

We planned on heading to our family's home in our pre-rented bus, or so I thought.  But when  we stepped off the plane our family was waiting at the arrival gates shouting our names, hugging us and draping beautiful garlands around our necks!  We were in awe and honored by the reception we received.

On to the family house, I was told the bus would have difficulty travelling on the last bit of narrow roadways to the  house so we may have to walk, carrying all our bags, a few blocks.

What actually happened was our Mama Ji's (uncles) and Prince (a cousin, who is one of the most genuinely amazing 22 year old I have ever met) had cars waiting for us.  We were escorted from our large bus to another set or smaller vehicles, our bags were whisked away by the family faster than we could keep track and we were seamlessly escorted to the house gate.  Now I was really beginning to believe I am royalty.  The rest of the week continually reaffirmed this belief.

From the moment we arrived our family spoiled us beyond belief.  We had drinks poured for us (especially lots of Chai), then empty glasses immediately taken from our hands before we could set them down, extravagant meals prepared and servedto us as Choti and Prince and often Mami Ji's (aunts) hovered around us to ensure all our needs (known and unknown to us) were met.

This is a picture of the chief our family hired for the week of our visit (he is a favorite of Dad's).  When your breakfast is a 3 course meal and there are 35 people to feed you soon realize the necessity of a chief!  I swear he was busy in front of his wok for the entire week.

The only time I was allowed to enter the kitchen was when I made mac and cheese or nutella sandwiches for the Jaya, Savitri and Jay.  Everyone looked on in a kinda of disgusted awe as I prepared this "pre-packaged" food.  The kids readily ate up their classic favorites.   Santosh Mama could not control his curiosity, he had to try this "macaroni" after his first bite I stared at his expressionless face waiting for a reaction.  Moments later I realized the food was so bland that it had not even registered on his pallet!





That evening we took the kids to a beautiful garden where I climbed my first bamboo ladder...it may look unstable but it wasn't....seriously Dad it wasn't!!

Next we are off to Sarnath, where Lord Buddha gave his first sermon after he reached enlightenment.

What is most memorable about this day was KABADDI.  It is the best game in the world, and I will soon enter its professional league!  The basics:
1. Break up into two teams.
2. Take off your shoes and use them as a line to separate teams.
3.  One person at a time crosses over into the other teams zone, tries to tag any opponent and get back to their side without being tackled.  The trick - you have to be saying Kabaddi-Kabaddi-Kabaddi....... over and over again without taking a breath all while trying to catch an opponent and avoid being caught yourself.
4.  If you stop saying kabaddi-kabaddi-kabaddi..... or get tackled before reaching the center line you are OUT.
This took at least 3 times to explain to me, and the piece of advice I got "Be creative"...thanks Prince!




My team did not win the match of Kabaddi but in my mind we are champions!







Then we hiked up a part of Sarnoff, I suspect that this part will be blocked off the next time we come!

Of all the places, congestion, mass of people and rush of life we have experienced so far; nothing prepared us for Banares.

We walked (or stumbled) through a crowded, busy & bright market place at the entrance point of The Ganges River.
Our family took us on a boat cruise down the Ganges River, a spiritual pilgrimage river for the Hindu religion.  We observed Arti (a prayer ceremony) while floating on the water.  It was an amazing experience.  Religion and Spirituality are very important in India and permeate through all aspects of life.

Our days were filled with delicious food, great company and exhilarating adventures, but it was the evenings that stick in my mind.  We had nights of singing and dance parties.  Without any bias I can say that my Indian Family is the best singers and dancers I have ever seen!  They put Bollywood to shame!

Gordon was able to keep up .. he entertained us all with his singing and won the top award (a child's bath toy was used as a trophy!) for dancing on a subsequent evening.

Although I was only here a week, the experience will stay with me for my lifetime.  I was humbled by the love, respect and kindness of every single member of the family.  They are a truly happy family.  I felt welcomed at every moment and learned so much.  The Dubey's are a very giving and selfless group.  They are more concerned about other members needs than their own, and it was contagious.  I love you all very much and look forward to our next reunion.

Shannon, Ajeet, Jaya and Savitri

Kickin' It Agra Style!

Our energy is up again, I am amazed at how well everyone is coping with the hectic schedule.  Our trip has been amazing, full of daily adventures and surreal new experiences.  We are meeting people that we will enrich our lives forever.  We are travelling at a good pace, especially while juggling 3 busy kids.

Today, we depart Ranthambore, via a seven hour bus ride, for Agra (home of the Taj Mahal and more famously home of Pratibha Maasi Ji, Anu and Manu bhaia and Vinay.)

En route we visited Fatehpur Sikri a magnificent Ancient city.  This stunning city was briefly the capital of a large empire built by Emperor Akhar to honor Saint Salim who foretold the birth of Akbar's son and heir.  It was built entirely in vibrant red sandstone, architecturally it draws its inspiration from Hindu and Persian styles.

 
            Nina Bua entertains the kids (and all of us really) with her Bengal Tiger impressions!

Upon arrival to Agra, Pratibha Maasi Ji had a spectacular 10 course meal waiting for us.  She greeted us at her door with an Arti blessing and graciously welcomed us into her home.  We were ecstatic to see Manu and meet another cousin, Vinay.  It was a grand welcome, we are definitely spoiled travellers.

First full day in Agra...Valentine's Day...ummm what should we do?  I know why not visit one of the most romantic places on earth, The Taj Mahal!

The Taj Mahal is stunning, regarded as one of the 7 Wonders of the World.
Emperor Shah Jahan immortalized his wife/empress, Mumtaz Mahal ("Light in the Palace") by building this monument, in her memory, as reflection of his love for her.

On her death bed Empress Mumtaz Mahal asked 3 things of her husband:

1.  He never marry again (Shah Jahan was in his early 30s when Mumtaz died this was a huge request).

2.  He take care of their children to the best of his ability.

3.  He build something to show the world how strong their love is, hence the Taj Mahal.

Shah Jahan fulfilled all 3 requests of his late wife.

Words and pictures will not provide the Taj Mahal justice.  Ajeet has seen the Taj on his last trip here, and after seeing many forts and palaces over the last few weeks he initially thought seeing the Taj would be no big deal.  But as we entered through the arched gates and saw the Taj, he was still blown away as we all paused and stood in awe of this amazing site.  The architecture, marble carvings, precious stones delicately inlaid into marble walls forming intricate designs, expansive size, reflection pool.  The Taj is truly an experience that pictures and words will never attain.

Alok giving Ajeet Pranam (or adjusting his shoe cover).  What brotherly love!






After being awed by the Taj Mahal, Manu and Vinay took Gordon and I on a city search for suitcases, Bianca decided to come for fun...and I don't think she was disappointed!  This was no ordinary trip.
3  hours later, after watching Manu persuade 2 shop keepers to open their stores, some Nascar style driving by Vinay and a congested market walk to a side shop where Manu again had a connection, success was ours.    Gordon and I both had 2 top quality suitcases at a bargain price.

This is us (left) maneuvering through a local market (Manu, in red check shirt, and myself just inches behind him).  Manu lead us to a side shop where the owner (obviously a well known acquaintance of his) sold Gordon a great suitcase at "warehouse price".

 Vinay was now under very specific instructions to get us to Agra Fort....Fast!  Once you have experienced the road congestion in India; you realize this is an impossible request.

I have no photos of this manic drive as I was literally having to focus on maintain my breathing.   The intensity of these driving conditions are well beyond anything I have seen.  Maneuvering around fruit vendors, horses, bulls, trucks, cars,  rickshaws and people everywhere...Vinay was a superstar!

Before meeting up with the rest of our group, Manu bought us some freshly squeezed orange juice (the oranges were green, hence a sweeter taste).  A cow quickly appeared to feast on the pulp and peel of the orange as it was squeezed in front of us.

As we were waiting, numerous young (less than 6 years old) children began grabbing/holding my hand,  begging for money.  Manu let me give some money to the kids (just as we were leaving), as of course I was instantly swarmed by at least 15 more wanting their share.  There was one boy would began yelling something, which I later discovered was "money", to let the others know to come running.  Manu snickered at my naivety, thinking these coins were in any way going to help forward these kids, but I really didn't know what else to do.  As Gordon mentioned earlier in the blogs, it was more to ease my conscience than actually help the children.



Last stop Agra Fort.  When the Mughal Emperor Akbar (also built Fatehpur Sikiri) established his supremacy in Northern India, he began his first architectural venture, rebuilding this fort as a beautiful fort palace.  The work highlighted the Mughal's ability to blend defensive and decorative architecture.
























There was  a richly decorated marble area of the palace (left photo)  where Shah Jahan (the one who had the Taj Mahal built in memory of his wife) spent the last years of his life in solitude.  He was imprisoned by his own son, confined to a small private quarters of Agra Fort, with a magical view of the Taj Mahal across the river Yamuna.






Next stop Varansi..we meet the rest of the Dubey family!

Shannon, Ajeet, Jaya and Savitri

Rajasthan State : Japiur

Rajasthan translation "Land of the Kings" is a North-Western Indian state (Population 56.5million, 88% Hindu) .  Its main geographic feature is the Aravalli Range, considered one of the oldest mountain ranges in the world.  The capital Jaipur is known as the Pink City, due to the core of the city being painted entirely pink in 1876.











We explored the extraordinary "Jantar Mantar", an astronomical observatory built by Raja Jai Singh II in 1728.  Roughly translated as "The Formula of Instruments".   The instruments are massive structures, which initially resembles a odd collection of bizarre scultures.  However, the structures are actually highly sophisticated instruments which are accurate even today.  It is impressive how hundreds of years ago, without any technology, they were using these intruments to measure time (to the minute) via the course of the suns shadow and to track stars/planets/eclipses.  The imagination and creativity of these ancient scientists are even more amazing than the structures themselves.

While touring the observatory a local family requested Savitri and Jaya take a photo with their daughter...this has happened so often by now that our sweet girls cheerfully posed for a pic and carried on.
I am continually amazed by our girls ability to adapt to such a foreign culture/land/language/people/food.........  Personally, I struggle remembering: don't swallow the water when I shower, do use bottled water to brush my teeth, do yield to passing goats, chickens, cows and camels, do ask for help communicating with the different languages.  Our girls however are doing it so easily and playfully.  They seem to be enjoying all the differences.

We toured the City Palace, which is a superb marriage of the Rajput and Mughal styles of architecture. We saw the seven storey Chandra Mahal (Moon Palace) which is a sprawling complex with multiple courtyards, buildings, astronimical observatory and zenana mahals (harem quarters).

We had to get a new camera as ours had it's fate sealed as soon as it left Savitri + Jaya's hands and made its first bounce (lens first) off a marble floor.  Indian marble, for those of you who haven't experienced it, makes concrete seem soft as a plush down-filled blanket.  The camera had no chance.

Our hunt for a new camera lead to my first experience walking along the Indian roads/traffic...and yes, I was almost hit numerous times.  Motocycles, human powered & auto-rickshaws and camels were my main adversaries.   We left the kids behind in the van with Nina for our walking excursion, as we feared they would certainly be a casualty of Indian traffic.

After watching me cross the road this is the advice I received from Ajeet and then our guide:

From my husband.....It was so fun when we were here last time Alok, Manu and I used to have races to see who could cross fastest and survive.  There is a certain skill to crossing the roads in India.
From our local guide.... Please mam, go slowly and go deliberately so the vehicles have a chance weave/merge around you....when you sprint across the street in terror it doesnt leave much of a chance for people, animals nor motorized vechicles to avoid you.

This time I took our guides advice...and had much more success while crossing the street.  Although the very next day, I was inches away from being hit by a motobike!  In my meager defense the motobike had its motor off while coasting down the steep hillside (I apparently was in its path).  Nina gave me a great heads up saying "Get out of the way" but neglected to tell me which direction to move ...obviously I moved directly into the path of the bike.  Tires squelled and (I am sure it was) swears exploding out of the driver and his 3 passagers mouths!

I must admit there is a certain thrill in navigating the traffic and as Ajeets states it requires a great deal of faith.  With each step....one must have faith and hope that the drivers will veer around around them, rather than crash into them.

One of our evening excusions was dinner and entertainment at Chokhi Dhani.  It is a village/bizzaar about 15km (45 minutes) from Japiur.  We had to hire a taxi, as our tourist company was refusing to enter the area.  Apparently 2 weeks prior a driver from the Tourist Union was severly beaten up while waiting for clients at Choki Dhani.   Now the Union was refusing to take anyone there until they received "adequate compensation" and the driver got an apology.

We ate traditional Rajasthani thalis in tradional style (seated on floor cushions with "biodegradable" bowls-leaves shaped into bowls which worked remarkably well).   We the watched traditional bands and dancing.  For the kids there were "rides", likely illegal rides to us in North American.  No sane parent would ever consider allowing their children on these rides.  Yet here, at this moment, a manual ferris wheel seemed like the greatest idea ever.

A Tom and Jerry sticker on the manual car spining ride.  This places makes Coney Island look like Disneyworld!

Seriously....a "Manual" FerrisWheel...one of the Carnies actually spider climbed up to the top the wheel to give the carts a faster push??

I post this picture now, as we likely escaped serious trauma!

Hill forts were always important to the Rajput rulers, who belonged to the warrior class of India's caste system.  Amber represents one of the finest Forts.

From Amber Fort, we drove outside the city limits into a forrested valley  for:

an Elephant Ride....but first we had to fuel th elephants with bananas.

Shannon, Ajeet, Jaya and Savitri